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Saturday, 02 June 2018
Galoot Image Central - Making a Folding Bed Fold

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18th_Century_folding_field_bedstead--just_add_water.JPG
18th_Century_folding_field_bedstead--just_add_water.JPGBed parts153 viewsThere are 26 parts to this walnut 18th century folding field bedstead. I've planed, scraped, and sanded all 26 in preparation for stain, shellac, and varnish.Sgt42RHR
Removing_waste_with_post_drill___center_bit.JPG
Removing_waste_with_post_drill___center_bit.JPGRemoving the waste with a post drill and center bit218 viewsI used my restored Champion post drill and an 11/16" (5/8"?) center bit to removed most of the waste on the 3/4" x 1 3/8" by 3/4" deep end-grain mortise.Sgt42RHR
Waste_removal_with_center_bit_completed.JPG
Waste_removal_with_center_bit_completed.JPGWaste Removal using center bit is completed158 viewsI cleaned and sharpened an 11/16" center bit, chucked it up in my restored Champion post drill, and removed most of the waste. Lining up the work to make sure it was level and plumb in the clamps took more time than actually drilling out the waste.Sgt42RHR
End_grain_mortise_completed.JPG
End_grain_mortise_completed.JPGEnd grain mortise completed160 viewsIt was easy to pare out the remaining waste left by the center bit. The bottom is nice and smooth as well.Sgt42RHR
Side_rail_mortise_and_tenon_fit_perfectly.JPG
Side_rail_mortise_and_tenon_fit_perfectly.JPGSide rail mortise and tenon fit perfectly!118 viewsAfter having drilled out the waste with a cetner bit, pared the sides to the gage line, the two center ends of the folding side rails fit perfectly. Ready for the hinges now!Sgt42RHR
Washington_Bed_Conservator_photo_of_side_rail_center_hinge[1].jpg
Washington_Bed_Conservator_photo_of_side_rail_center_hinge[1].jpgProblems with the side rail center hinge139 viewsThis conservator photo shows one of the side rails at the center hinge. You can see that the hinge mortise is broken out on one side, probably as a result of too much vertical movement. Perhaps this is why a center leg was added to the bed at some point in its life.Sgt42RHR
campbed10.jpg
campbed10.jpgFolding bed forged iron hardware146 viewsHere are the drawings of the forged hinges and hook & eye arrangements on the Washington bed. I had them duplicated exactly; they are not lightweight.Sgt42RHR
Ramped_mortise_detail.jpg
Ramped_mortise_detail.jpgDrawing detail of mortises for spreader bar186 viewsHere are the details of what I've been referring to as a 'ramped' mortise to receive the tenons in the spreader bar that will go under the bed's fabric foundation. The purpose of the spreader bar is to keep the side rails from closing inward.Sgt42RHR
Washingtons_folding_field_bedstead_by_Dick_Toone~0.jpg
Washingtons_folding_field_bedstead_by_Dick_Toone~0.jpgShowing the linen canvas foundation171 viewsBecause there will be some sag in the linen canvas foundation (though less than in cotton canvas), the spreader bar underneath the bed must be curved so that the sleeper will not feel the bar. You can see Dick Toone's intrepretation of the curved spreader bar here.Sgt42RHR
Washington_Bed_Conservator_photo_of_partially_folded_bed[1].jpg
Washington_Bed_Conservator_photo_of_partially_folded_bed[1].jpgHow the bed folds and unfolds314 viewsThe conservator sent me this photo which provides an excellent view of the relationship of the parts to the whole. Captured here in the midst of a fold/unfold you can see the necessary scissoring action of the side rails, the rounded stub tenons at the corners and in the middle of the side rails, and the folded legs and posts. My next challenge will be to cut the mortises in the center ends of the side rails. I can also see in this detail that the center side rail hinges are mortised into the side rails Sgt42RHR
Washington_bed_Conservators_interpretation_of_stretcher_bar[1].jpg
Washington_bed_Conservators_interpretation_of_stretcher_bar[1].jpgRecreated stretcher bar for Washington bed131 viewsThe stretcher bar (spreader bar?) was missing from the original Washington bed, here is the replacement the conservator made; I'll probably do something just like this in shape. If you look hard on the left rail, you can make out the mortise with a open sloped side to allow the bar to slide in. On the other side it's a regular mortise.Sgt42RHR
Offset_mortises_in_head_and_foot_corner_to_receive_folding_side_rail_tenons.JPG
Offset_mortises_in_head_and_foot_corner_to_receive_folding_side_rail_tenons.JPGOffset mortises in head and foot corner to receive folding side rail tenons198 viewsIn the head of the bed the mortises for the curved tenons lean 1/8" to the right and in the foot of the bed they lean 1/8" to the left. This will allow the folding side rails to scissor over and under each other as they fold.Sgt42RHR
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