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Lock_and_hasp_fit.JPG
Lock_and_hasp_fit.JPGfitting the lock and hasp223 viewsThe lock box and hasp fit into the lock mortise I cut in the front side of the round trunk body.Sgt42RHR
Mark_up_for_rounding_the_exterior.JPG
Mark_up_for_rounding_the_exterior.JPGMark up for rounding the exterior282 viewsThis view shows the circle scribed to mark out the trunk exterior for planing it round.Sgt42RHR
Ready_for_hardware,_lining,_and_covering.JPG
Ready_for_hardware,_lining,_and_covering.JPGReady for hardware, lining, and leather covering263 viewsThe interior will be lined with linen and the exterior will be covered with leather.Sgt42RHR
Trunk_body_before_coopering.JPG
Trunk_body_before_coopering.JPGTrunk body before coopering200 viewsThe staves forming the body have been glued and nailed to the ends and bottom of the trunk. It's now ready for rounding on the outside.Sgt42RHR
Rounding_the_exterior_is_complete_-_end_view.JPG
Rounding_the_exterior_is_complete_-_end_view.JPGRouncing the exterior is complete - end view213 viewsHere is an end view of the exterior of the trunk after I've planed the exterior. I used a Stanley No. 5 1/2, a LN 4 1/2, and a Stanley No. 18 block plane. I'll fill knot and nail holes and then sand before covering the exterior with leather.Sgt42RHR
Reference_grooves_cut_with_I__Sorby_and_Record_044_plough_planes.JPG
Reference_grooves_cut_with_I__Sorby_and_Record_044_plough_planes.JPGReference grooves cut with I. Sorby and Record 044 plough planes211 viewsI used an I. Sorby wooden plough plane to cut the central groove, and a Record 044 plough plane to cut the grooves on each side. The black magic marker on each edge creates an easy reference for when to stop cutting on each edge.Sgt42RHR
Removing_waste_with_I_Sorby_plough_plane.JPG
Removing_waste_with_I_Sorby_plough_plane.JPGRemoving waste with an I. Sorby plough plane214 viewsI used the Sorby wooden plough plane to cut the central goove, and a Record 044 plough plane to cut the two grooves on each side.Sgt42RHR
Reference_grooves_cut--ready_for_shoulder_plane.JPG
Reference_grooves_cut--ready_for_shoulder_plane.JPGGrooves cut ready for shoulder plane177 viewsSgt42RHR
Removing_waste_with_shoulder_plane.JPG
Removing_waste_with_shoulder_plane.JPGRemoving waste with a shoulder plane164 viewsI used a shoulder plane--in conjunction with the reference grooves made with the plough planes--to bring the surface down close to the pencil line.Sgt42RHR
Cleaning_up_down_to_the_line_with_a_home_made_cabinet_scraper_blade.JPG
Cleaning_up_down_to_the_line_with_a_home_made_cabinet_scraper_blade.JPGCleaning up down to the line with a home made cabinet scraper blade172 viewsI used an old Stanley plane blade ground to the arc of the inside of the trunk (6 inch radius) to remove the planing marks, create a uniform shape on all staves, and a smooth interior surface.Sgt42RHR
Ready_to_glue_and_nail_the_staves_to_the_ends_of_the_trunk.JPG
Ready_to_glue_and_nail_the_staves_to_the_ends_of_the_trunk.JPGReady to glue and nail the staves to the trunk ends158 viewsThese staves have been planed and scraped down to the pencil line and smooth; they are ready to glue and nail to the ends of the trunkSgt42RHR
Made_a_shooting_board_to_hold_the_staves_while_planing_inside_hollow.JPG
Made_a_shooting_board_to_hold_the_staves_while_planing_inside_hollow.JPGSticking board and hollowing inside of staves243 viewsI sink several grooves with plow planes to remove waste wood and to make reference lines. Then use shoulder plane to remove most of the rest of the waste, then the #18 Round plane. I will finish with the purpose-built cambered plane blade in a Stanley No. 80 cabinet scraper.Sgt42RHR
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