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DSC02450.JPGRasp Handle Pair Closeup185 viewsChuck Myers
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DSC02446.JPGRasp Handle Ferrule151 viewsJim's technique of making the tenon a bit over-long and trimming to exactly the end of the ferrule works nicely. The primary difference between a compression nut and a flare nut is the length of the small tenon--quite a bit longer for the latter.Chuck Myers
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DSC02445.JPGRasp Handle Closeup165 viewsThis gives a better idea of what the long, tapered ferrule looks like when completed.Chuck Myers
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DSC02444.JPGRasp Handle145 viewsI tried Jim Thompson's ferrule-from-compression-nut approach using a flare nut. The approach worked just fine, and the result was this handle for a Nicholson #50. Wood is maple burl.Chuck Myers
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DSC02425.JPGFirst Burnisher Handle Closeup137 viewsChuck Myers
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DSC02423.JPGFirst Burnisher172 viewsTony Zaffuto carbide rod in lyptus handle. Ferrule is made from compression nut.Chuck Myers
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DSC02440.JPGFinal Burnisher Handle Closeup140 viewsChuck Myers
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DSC02441.JPGFinal Burnisher Ferrule160 viewsBy turning a "mini tenon" on the end of the ferrule tenon I was able to use the entire compression nut *and* fill it completely with wood.Chuck Myers
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DSC02439.JPGFinal Burnisher166 viewsI finally got a handle I liked. Canary wood with brass ferrule made from 1/2" compression nut.Chuck Myers
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DSC02454.JPGFile Handle in Context218 viewsNested between handle for #49 (which used 1/2" flare nut for ferrule) and Skroozon handle (which uses stamped metal of some sort). The Skroozon does a perfectly adequate job, but I think I like the look and feel of rosewood/brass better.Chuck Myers
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DSC02456.JPGFile Handle Closeup232 viewsFerrule is made from 5/16" flare nut. After turning off the corners, I found that using a file on the spinning ferrule helps to produce a very smooth and even taper. I also rounded over the end of the ferrule with the file this time, rather than the scraper.Chuck Myers
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