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IMG_1054.JPG
IMG_1054.JPGDeadman 3: Finished236 viewsHere is the finished deadman amid all the shavings from flattening the topTRexF16
IMG_1033.JPG
IMG_1033.JPGDeadman 2: 214 viewsDeadman installed but no linseed oil on it yet. The top hole is at the correct level that the top of a 3/4 inch dog in the deadman is dead even with the top of the vise screws on the face vise. So if I clamp a long narrow board I'll get even support from the deadman and clamping from the face vise and a holdfast in the right leg.TRexF16
IMG_1031.JPG
IMG_1031.JPGDeadman 1: Layout258 views[Galoot In Training] Taylor and I lay out the curve for the waist of the deadman with an old set of Stanley #4 Trammel points. TRexF16
IMG_1043.JPG
IMG_1043.JPGChip Repair 5197 viewsFinished repair. It turned out I didn't get as good a grain and color match as I'd hoped but it still looks a lot better than before.TRexF16
IMG_1042.JPG
IMG_1042.JPGChip Repair 4201 viewsTHe replacement piece held for gluing with a holdfast.TRexF16
IMG_1041.JPG
IMG_1041.JPGChip repair 3189 viewsI cut a recess with a fitted replacement piece. It is undercut a bit (like a dovetail) at the part of the slot opposite the hole.TRexF16
IMG_1038.JPG
IMG_1038.JPGChip repair 2189 viewsI sorted through the offcuts from the top hoping to find a candidate with matching grain and color. There is a lot of variance in the maple in my top, as this photo shows.TRexF16
IMG_1036.JPG
IMG_1036.JPGChip repair 1194 viewsWhile I had the top upside down on the scrounged table, I used its end dog hole along with a holdfast to hold the legs and stretchers while I mortised and planed them. When I flipped the top over to mount it on the finished base I saw there had been some chipping due to the lack of any countersinking or chamfering around the hole, so I needed to fix it...TRexF16
IMG_1062.JPG
IMG_1062.JPGVise problem 3257 viewsHere's the view from underneath of the long 3/4 inch maple pegs driven in through the face vise backing slabs and into the benchtop itself. I used no glue in case I ever had to remove them, but they were pretty hard to drive in, and I guess unless the two holes are absolutley parallel I'll probably never get them off. Otherwise they'll have the same dovetail effect of offset toe nailing. There have been no problems with any face vise clamping since making this modification.TRexF16
IMG_1061.JPG
IMG_1061.JPGVise problem 2358 viewsThe backing slabs could move up to 1/8 inch under offset clamping force because the 3/8 inch bolts run through 1/2 inch holes. No way can 3/8 inch bolts resist the clamping force of 1 1/2 inch acme thread steel vise screws! I decided to fix this problem by boring holes for tight-fitting dowels which will prevent any movement. Here I am boring the 3/4 inch holes from underneath the top for the pegs. The holes pass through the slabs which back the face vise and well up into the benchtop itself. 3/4 inch maple dowels will be driven through these holes and up into the benchtop.TRexF16
IMG_1027.JPG
IMG_1027.JPGVise problem 1281 viewsThis shot taken while fitting the screws to the face vise shows the basic configuration of the face vise itself and the two backing slabs which are bolted top to bottom through the benchtop. Each backing slab has two 3/8 inch bolts running through them. Nevertheless, I still found that if I clamped a board in the face vise, and it only bore against the top and the face vise, or the leg and the face vise, but not the backing slabs, I could easily put enough force on it to pull the slabs out of alignment.TRexF16
IMG_1051.JPG
IMG_1051.JPGTop flattening 2243 viewsThis job was made more difficult by lack of a really fine straight-edge. I have a three foot aluminum "garden variety" staight edge, which helps a bit, but so wish for a real, no kidding high precision four foot (or more) Starrett or one of equal quality. Santa, if you're listening...TRexF16
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