Making a Folding Bed Fold |
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18th_Century_folding_field_bedstead--just_add_water.JPGBed parts153 viewsThere are 26 parts to this walnut 18th century folding field bedstead. I've planed, scraped, and sanded all 26 in preparation for stain, shellac, and varnish.Sgt42RHR
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campbed10.jpgFolding bed forged iron hardware146 viewsHere are the drawings of the forged hinges and hook & eye arrangements on the Washington bed. I had them duplicated exactly; they are not lightweight.Sgt42RHR
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Curved_tenon_allows_side_rail_to_fold.JPGCurved tenons and offset mortise175 viewsThe tenons are 3/4" x 3/4" x 2 1/4" and cut with an arc on one side to allow the tenon to rotate into and out of the mortise as the bed folds.Sgt42RHR
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End_grain_mortise_completed.JPGEnd grain mortise completed160 viewsIt was easy to pare out the remaining waste left by the center bit. The bottom is nice and smooth as well.Sgt42RHR
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Hinges_allow_side_rails_to_fold_at_corners.JPGHinges allow side rails to fold at corners144 viewsI had wrought iron hinges made from measured drawings of Washington's field bed. There is a hinge at each corner, and one each in the middle of the side rails.Sgt42RHR
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Offset_mortises_in_head_and_foot_corner_to_receive_folding_side_rail_tenons.JPGOffset mortises in head and foot corner to receive folding side rail tenons198 viewsIn the head of the bed the mortises for the curved tenons lean 1/8" to the right and in the foot of the bed they lean 1/8" to the left. This will allow the folding side rails to scissor over and under each other as they fold.Sgt42RHR
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Ramped_mortise_detail.jpgDrawing detail of mortises for spreader bar186 viewsHere are the details of what I've been referring to as a 'ramped' mortise to receive the tenons in the spreader bar that will go under the bed's fabric foundation. The purpose of the spreader bar is to keep the side rails from closing inward.Sgt42RHR
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Removing_waste_with_post_drill___center_bit.JPGRemoving the waste with a post drill and center bit218 viewsI used my restored Champion post drill and an 11/16" (5/8"?) center bit to removed most of the waste on the 3/4" x 1 3/8" by 3/4" deep end-grain mortise.Sgt42RHR
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Side_rail_mortise_and_tenon_fit_perfectly.JPGSide rail mortise and tenon fit perfectly!118 viewsAfter having drilled out the waste with a cetner bit, pared the sides to the gage line, the two center ends of the folding side rails fit perfectly. Ready for the hinges now!Sgt42RHR
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Tenons_on_folding_side_rails_at_each_corner_and_middle.JPGTenons on folding side rails at each corner and middle142 viewsHere is a good shot of the curved tenons used at each corner and at the middle of the side rails. I made a metal template for marking out the shape which is a segment of a 1 1/2" diameter circle. I sawed off the excess waste, pared more of the waste away, and then finished with a shoulder plane. I sloshed some mineral spirits on before I snapped the picture to see what the grain looked like.Sgt42RHR
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Washingtons_folding_field_bedstead_by_Dick_Toone~0.jpgShowing the linen canvas foundation171 viewsBecause there will be some sag in the linen canvas foundation (though less than in cotton canvas), the spreader bar underneath the bed must be curved so that the sleeper will not feel the bar. You can see Dick Toone's intrepretation of the curved spreader bar here.Sgt42RHR
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Washington_bed_Conservators_interpretation_of_stretcher_bar[1].jpgRecreated stretcher bar for Washington bed131 viewsThe stretcher bar (spreader bar?) was missing from the original Washington bed, here is the replacement the conservator made; I'll probably do something just like this in shape. If you look hard on the left rail, you can make out the mortise with a open sloped side to allow the bar to slide in. On the other side it's a regular mortise.Sgt42RHR
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