Shaving Horse |
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IMG_0216.JPGUsing it! It works great!130 viewsPretty day for August in AZ...wasn't more than 100 degrees and no rain.TRexF16
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IMG_0213.JPGRiding the Horse149 viewsGitty-Up.TRexF16
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IMG_0203.JPGPin for the arm147 viewsThis was my one concession to modernity - a six inch button-release detent ball pin I scrounged from the metal recylcling dumpster at work. I like the fact that it locks in and won't release unless it's on purpose. One of these days, when my forge is up, I may bang out a more Galootinous-looking pin to replace it but I like it for now.TRexF16
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IMG_0207.JPGLegs129 viewsI made the legs octagonal...just 'cause that's purty. If I had owned a shaving horse when I built this shaving horse I probably would have just shaved 'em down tapered round.TRexF16
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IMG_0208.JPGJoinery - Treadle151 viewsSlightly non-standard tusk-tennon since the main mortise and tennon cheeks are at an 80 degree angle to the arm, so the tusk has to have its bearing face cut at that angle too.TRexF16
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IMG_0206.JPGJoinery - Legs148 viewsGlued and wedged with the same Goncalo Alves as the head (same wedge material on my workbench and sawbench too).TRexF16
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IMG_0202.JPGJoinery - Head 178 viewsThe plan called for knock-down tusk tennons top and bottom on the arm, which was to allow the horse to be disassembled to move it, but I figured only one end needed that to achieve that effect, so I decided to just drawbore and double-wedge the head to the arm, and only tusk the treadle for knock-down purposes. This joint matches the ones on my sawbench and workbench, which I like, so I kept 'em going.TRexF16
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IMG_0205.JPGDowels in the riser154 viewsThe riser between the bench and the bridge is attached without glue, but with #12 brass screws. I glued in 3/4 inch maple dowels with the grain oriented horizontally so the screws would anchor in strong cross-grain instead of being otherwise screwed into end grain.TRexF16
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IMG_0161.JPGBoring 4172 viewsKeep it all lined up while you turn the auger and "Bob's your uncle!"TRexF16
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IMG_0160.JPGBoring 3150 viewsHere's the set-up for boring the second hole.TRexF16
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IMG_0155.JPGBoring 2186 viewsEverything was held for boring by clamping it to my sawbench with a holdfast, and a sacrificial pine board was clamped behind the work to prevent blowout on the bottom side.TRexF16
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IMG_0157.JPGBoring 1174 viewsBoring all four holes at the correct angle is the only real challenging part of the project, and I used a Stanley #18 bevel clamped to the work, along with some guide lines to keep the angles consistent. Since the large auger I wanted to use lacked forward facing spurs, I started each hole with a #20 spur bit in a brace, then switched to the big 1 1/4" two-handed auger as soon as I had scored the entry cut enough to avoid tear-out.TRexF16
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