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DSC04482.JPGBig Brother, Little Brother135 viewsHere are a couple of planes I picked up yesterday, a #5 and a #6, both Type 11. They were both in pretty sad shape, dirty and rusted. Of course, both had the mandatory green paint spots, and one even had some light brown to go with the green. I've come to prefer the low knobbers over the years, and I particularly like the Type 11's, so this was a nice find. Prices weren't great, but they were better than I'd likely have paid on Ebay. Both function nicely after a small amount of anal retentive fettling.Chuck Myers
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Miter_Square_SA.JPGEbony and Brass Miter Square139 viewsPicked up at my favorite flea market in Johannesburg. Unmarked. Appears to be early. Quasi-gloatable price because I'm one of the dealer's regulars (despite residing half a world away).Chuck Myers
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No_4_Refurb_Tote_Upload.jpg173 viewsThe No 4 tote, again after cleaning off large and heavy paint splatters using alcohol and adding a couple of coats of wax.Chuck Myers
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No_4_Refurb_Knob_Upload.jpg148 viewsCloseup of the No 4 knob after cleaning off paint splatters using alcohol. Alcohol seemed to dull the finish just a little, but a couple of coats of wax fixed that problem.Chuck Myers
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No_4_Refurb_Upload.jpg190 viewsThis is a Stanley No 4, Type 9, plane that I just finished refurbishing. It was in pretty sad shape when I got it--with heavy rust on all the bare metal parts and sole cupped across its width. Japaning was in good shape, though. Wood, too, though there were some pretty large and heavy paint splatters. Note the deep rust pit on the side. I was more aggressive than usual in cleaning up this plane because of the heavy rust.Chuck Myers
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Scew--Business_End_Upload.jpg189 viewsHere's the business end of the skew. Note that grinding it took a little experimentation, so the bevel's not ground uniformly all the way across. The "scars" don't hurt anything, so there's no sense wasting good steel just so it looks prettier.Chuck Myers
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Skew_from_O1_Rod_Upload.jpg199 views1/2" skew chisel. Several writers recommend a round cross section vs the ubiquitous rectangular (including those with edges rounded over). The idea is supposed to be that in use the bevel is pretty much automatically supported by the tool rest, and the extra mass provides added stability. This one is made from O1 rod with lyptus handle. It's probably RC 60-64 based on tempering temperature.Chuck Myers
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DSC02456.JPGFile Handle Closeup232 viewsFerrule is made from 5/16" flare nut. After turning off the corners, I found that using a file on the spinning ferrule helps to produce a very smooth and even taper. I also rounded over the end of the ferrule with the file this time, rather than the scraper.Chuck Myers
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DSC02454.JPGFile Handle in Context218 viewsNested between handle for #49 (which used 1/2" flare nut for ferrule) and Skroozon handle (which uses stamped metal of some sort). The Skroozon does a perfectly adequate job, but I think I like the look and feel of rosewood/brass better.Chuck Myers
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DSC02450.JPGRasp Handle Pair Closeup185 viewsChuck Myers
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DSC02444.JPGRasp Handle145 viewsI tried Jim Thompson's ferrule-from-compression-nut approach using a flare nut. The approach worked just fine, and the result was this handle for a Nicholson #50. Wood is maple burl.Chuck Myers
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