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DSC02354.JPG473 views4-in-1 screwdriver from Rockler kit, flanked by hardware store cousins. Ivory wood handle from what turned out to be a wet blank.Chuck Myers
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DSC02386.JPG560 viewsAnother 4-in-1 screwdriver from Rockler kit. This one has canary wood handle.Chuck Myers
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DSC02388.JPG340 viewsThe effect of wet wood shrinkage on the fit of a once-tight ferrule.Chuck Myers
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DSC02423.JPGFirst Burnisher172 viewsTony Zaffuto carbide rod in lyptus handle. Ferrule is made from compression nut.Chuck Myers
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DSC02425.JPGFirst Burnisher Handle Closeup137 viewsChuck Myers
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DSC02426.JPGCompression nut ferrule closeup199 viewsI ground off (sanded, actually) the small end of the nut, so the wood fills the ferrule completely.Chuck Myers
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DSC02439.JPGFinal Burnisher166 viewsI finally got a handle I liked. Canary wood with brass ferrule made from 1/2" compression nut.Chuck Myers
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DSC02440.JPGFinal Burnisher Handle Closeup140 viewsChuck Myers
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DSC02441.JPGFinal Burnisher Ferrule160 viewsBy turning a "mini tenon" on the end of the ferrule tenon I was able to use the entire compression nut *and* fill it completely with wood.Chuck Myers
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DSC02444.JPGRasp Handle145 viewsI tried Jim Thompson's ferrule-from-compression-nut approach using a flare nut. The approach worked just fine, and the result was this handle for a Nicholson #50. Wood is maple burl.Chuck Myers
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DSC02445.JPGRasp Handle Closeup165 viewsThis gives a better idea of what the long, tapered ferrule looks like when completed.Chuck Myers
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DSC02446.JPGRasp Handle Ferrule151 viewsJim's technique of making the tenon a bit over-long and trimming to exactly the end of the ferrule works nicely. The primary difference between a compression nut and a flare nut is the length of the small tenon--quite a bit longer for the latter.Chuck Myers
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